Are you determined to own a superb suit made from authentic Italian wool, but worried you’ll get tricked by fake fabric or scams in the market? Counterfeit men’s suit fabrics are a growing global problem, plaguing not just India but classic tailoring hubs like Hong Kong, Thailand, Vietnam, Europe, and the US. Here’s how to sidestep fabric fraud, spot fake suit materials, and ensure you always get the quality you pay for.
The Fabric Roadmap
The Great ‘Super 150s’ Scam
Recently, a couple visited us after being lured by “super 150s Italian fabrics” at a high-end Mumbai tailor. They wanted us to source that exact fabric. But a quick investigation revealed the so-called “Italian” fabric was nothing more than a fine polyester viscose rayon blend, but priced higher than genuine wool cloth from prestigious mills like Vitale Barberis Canonico (VBC), Scabal or Zegna.
Unfortunately, this isn’t rare. Around the world, stores stock counterfeit “designer” suit fabrics, many produced in China, often indistinguishable by sight or touch. It’s a lucrative scam because there’s no simple way for customers to confirm fabric authenticity on the spot.
Why It’s Critical To Get Authentic Suit Fabric
- Value for Money: Genuine superfine wool is a major investment—you deserve the real thing.
- Reputation: Discovering you’ve been duped with a fake after purchase is embarrassing and frustrating.
- Longevity and Looks: The primary purpose of a suit is to enhance your stature! Polyester or blends will not last or wear like real wool.
Common Suit Fabric Scams to Watch Out For
- Fake Branding Claims: Fabric is sold as “Italian” or “English wool” without real mill proof.
- Counterfeits Labeled as Superfine: Blends or synthetics marketed as “Super 150s” or higher wool counts.
- No Selvedge Branding: Mills always include their name and specs on the selvedge for a reason.
- Unrealistic Prices: If it feels too good to be true, it probably is—on either end of the price spectrum.
How to Identify Genuine Suit Fabric
1. Check the Selvedge for Branding
The most reliable way to spot authentic fabric is by inspecting the selvedge, the woven edge running along the side. Genuine cloth from mills like Raymond (India) or Zegna (Italy) always features continuous branding, counts, or certification details. Fake fabrics usually have plain stitches or blank selvedge.
2. Ask For Brand Collaterals
Most Italian Mills offer branding labels or other collateral to assist clients in making the right choices. Ask for those.
3. Assess Price vs. Quality
If a store offers “premium” or “designer” wool fabric at an unusually low (or, oddly, much higher) price than reputable brands, it’s a red flag.
3. Use Your Senses – But Don’t Rely Solely On Them
Sometimes the feel or the drape reveals polyester, but high-quality fakes are often very convincing by hand.
Essential Checklist: How to Avoid Suit Fabric Fraud
- Buy only from trusted, well-reviewed sellers or established boutiques.
- Always examine the fabric selvedge for brand info, especially with premium or imported cloth.
- Ask for the fabric to be shown at your first fitting if your tailor sources it.
- Be wary of high-pressure pitches and shops that won’t share brand or certification details.
- When in doubt, seek advice from a reputable stylist or clothier before finalizing your purchase.
Fabric Integrity: Frequently Asked Questions
How can I tell if a fabric is genuine Vitale Barberis Canonico (VBC)?
Genuine VBC fabric will always have the mill’s name and ‘Made in Italy’ woven into the selvedge (the edge of the fabric). Furthermore, an authentic piece is always accompanied by a specific, high-quality woven label from the mill. If the tailor offers the fabric but cannot produce the official mill label, it is likely a counterfeit.
Does a high “Super” number (e.g., Super 180s) mean it’s Italian?
Not at all. In fact, many fake fabrics carry absurdly high numbers like ‘Super 200s’ or ‘Super 220s’ to lure buyers. The ‘Super’ number refers to the fineness of the wool fiber, not the country of origin. Authentic Italian mills like Drago or Loro Piana rarely go above Super 160s for standard suiting due to durability concerns.
What is the “Burn Test” and how do I perform it?
If you can obtain a small thread of the fabric, light it with a flame. **Pure Wool** will smell like burning hair, leave a brittle black ash, and extinguish itself. **Synthetic/Viscose** (fake Italian) will smell like burning plastic or paper, melt into a hard bead, and continue to burn aggressively.
Why do some fabrics say “Italian Design” but not “Made in Italy”?
This is a common marketing trap. “Italian Design” or “Italian Concept” usually means the fabric was manufactured in a low-cost mill in another country but mimics Italian patterns. Authentic luxury fabric will explicitly state **”Made in Italy”** on the selvedge.
Can I trust the branding on the edge (selvedge) of the cloth?
Mostly, but verify the spelling. Scammers often use ‘Vitall Barberis’ or ‘Zegnaa’ to bypass legal issues while fooling the casual observer. High-end mills use precise, clean lettering that is woven into the cloth, not printed on top of it.
What is a realistic price for a 2rd-tier Italian suit fabric?
If a tailor offers you a “Zegna” or “Loro Piana” suit for ₹25,000, it is 100% fake. The raw fabric cost alone for these mills often exceeds that amount. In the 2026 market, expect to pay a premium that reflects the import duties and the heritage of the mill.
Does authentic Italian fabric wrinkle more than synthetics?
Natural wool has ‘bounce back.’ While it may wrinkle during wear, hanging it up usually allows the fibers to relax and the wrinkles to disappear. Synthetic fakes often hold ‘sharp’ wrinkles or have a permanent, unnatural plastic-like sheen that doesn’t go away.
Is “Super 150s” always better than “Super 110s”?
Not necessarily. A Super 110s from a top-tier mill like VBC will outperform a ‘Super 150s’ from a generic or fake mill in terms of drape, breathability, and lifespan. The quality of the sheep’s wool and the weaving process matters more than the number.
Are there any genuine Italian mills that don’t use selvedge branding?
Very few. Almost all members of the *Idea Biella* (the elite Italian textile association) take immense pride in their branding. If the fabric is plain on the edges and has no accompanying certificate or label, consider it a red flag.
How does TailorWear guarantee fabric authenticity?
We source directly from authorized distributors of the mills. Every bespoke commission using Italian or British cloth is delivered with the **Original Mill Label** sewn into the interior of the jacket, providing you with a permanent record of the garment’s pedigree.
TailorWear Promise
The TailorWear Fabric Integrity Promise
In an industry clouded by “Super-count” marketing and white-labeled counterfeits, TailorWear operates on a foundation of radical transparency. We believe that a gentleman should know exactly what he is wearing, why it costs what it does, and how it will perform over time.
1. Certified Pedigree
Every commission using premium Italian or British cloth (from mills like VBC, Drago, or Holland & Sherry) is delivered with its original woven mill label. We provide the selvedge ID as proof of origin—never a generic ‘Italian Concept’ substitute.
2. Radical Transparency
We also curate a selection of high-quality, non-European fabrics that offer exceptional durability and value. We clearly distinguish these from our Italian imports, explaining the difference in drape, breathability, and micron-count so you can make an informed choice.
3. No ‘Super’ Gimmicks
We refuse to sell fabrics based on inflated ‘Super 200s’ labels. We judge cloth by its handle, weight, and weave density. If a fabric doesn’t meet our master tailor’s standards for construction, it doesn’t enter our atelier.
4. Direct Sourcing
By working with authorized distributors, we eliminate the middleman ‘jobbers’ who often mix authentic bolts with fakes. This ensures that the bespoke suit you invest in today remains a cornerstone of your wardrobe for a decade.
Don’t risk your investment or your confidence. Counterfeit suit fabric scams are rampant, but avoidable, if you know the warning signs. Follow the guidelines above and do not hesitate to ask questions or request proof. For more advice, leave a comment or contact our stylists. We’re happy to help you buy only the best in men’s suiting.
Looking for more? See our complete guides on How to Buy a Suit and fabric care to protect your investment.
Thank you for posting this helpful blog on how to buy quality men’s suit fabric. It is important to verify the texture and quality of a cloth before investing on it. This blog will serve as a handy guide for buying good quality suit fabric. Please keep on sharing more helpful tips and suggestions in the upcoming posts.
Useful
Namaste.
Read the article. Informative with years of experience.
The suit is not a regular for many people. They require it for very few occasions. Hence do not want to invest much into it. Still wish to look at their best in a suit.
Can you suggest something for such people?