What is a Nehru Jacket

modi jacket as casualwear

Historical Background of Nehru Jacket

Before embarking on the details of this piece, let us understand a little history of the Nehru Jacket. India’s first Prime Minister, Jawaharlal Nehru, publicly wore two kinds of jackets. The technically correct name for the most common one he wore is Achkan. We will have more information on what an Achkan is soon. 
The other jacket piece he wore, but not too often, is an Indian Vest, also known as Bundi. For some odd reason, this latter piece has become popular as a Nehru jacket even though there are not too many pictures of Nehru wearing it in his public appearances. 
As a matter of coincidence, PM Modi also finds Bundi as one of his favourite dressing pieces, which many have started referring to as the Modi Jacket.​

Historical black and white photograph of Indian Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru wearing traditional Achkan (Nehru jacket) with Foreign Minister and dignitaries at diplomatic airport reception, showcasing Indian formal menswear heritage
PM Nehru in an Achkan, originally known as the Nehru Jacket
Jawaharlal Nehru wearing a band-collar jacket, illustrating the historical origin and political influence behind the Nehru jacket in Indian clothing.
PM Nehru in a Bundi, which later on became famous as the Nehru Jacket
Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi, wearing a traditional beige Nehru jacket over a white kurta-pyjama, illustrates the classic bandhgala silhouette and the modern political and cultural significance of the Nehru jacket in Indian menswear.
PM Modi in a Bundi, also called Modi Jacket

​What is a Nehru Jacket

A Nehru jacket is a hip-length, tailored Indian coat with a band collar, traditionally worn over a kurta, and named after India’s first Prime Minister, Jawaharlal Nehru. It is a sleeveless outerwear piece with an open placket featuring four to five buttons, and it ends well above the hips. But a Nehru Jacket or Modi Jacket goes much beyond this fundamental construction. The choice of buttons, pockets, vents, fabrics, and other trimmings can convert this classic piece into a formal, casual, traditional, or even adventure gear outfit.


What is so good about Nehru Jacket

As explained briefly above, among many good things, the best piece about the Nehru Jacket is its versatility, which allows it to be worn on various occasions & paired with different types of clothing, be it traditional Indian attire like kurta-pajamas or Western wear like shirts and trousers. 
With the names of two biggies of Indian politics attached, Bundi naturally attains a cultural significance & adds a touch of India to the style. So, for a foreigner visiting India, it becomes a good ice breaker and an exotic piece to carry from here.

FROM THE MASTER’S DESK

The Bundi stands as India’s timeless gift to every man’s wardrobe – a high collar framing the neck like a proud handshake, sturdy buttons marching in perfect unity. Worn by leaders from Nehru to Modi, it wraps the chest in simple power: no frills, just poised elegance for boardrooms, weddings, or city streets. Universally flattering, it bridges tradition and tomorrow – crisp, confident, a collar-up call to own your presence with quiet strength.


Which fabric is best for a Nehru Jacket

The original Nehru Jacket used to be made in khadi. During the non-cooperation movement, Mahatma Gandhi made khadi fabric the symbol of resistance. Probably, Nehru tried adding his bit to make it a mainstream fabric, at least amongst the political class.
Today, the usage occasion decides what fabric works best for a Nehru Jacket.


Nehru Jacket as Formalwear

Classic suiting materials like 100% wool or wool blends work best for workwear or formal occasions. One should consider this type of Nehru Jacket as an Indian Summer Suit/Coat and select the fabric and styling ideas similar to a two-piece suit or jacket. One should pair a contrasting colour shirt & trousers with it. One shouldn’t opt for lighter colours for this type of occasion.

Contemporary interpretation of a Nehru jacket styled with modern Indian formalwear, showing how the Nehru jacket has evolved beyond traditional use.
A black bundi suit comprising a nehru jacket and torusers made in the same wool material.

A fusion interpretation of the Nehru jacket, worn casually with denim, shows how the Nehru jacket has evolved beyond its traditional use.
Bundi made in black linen with metal buttons and patch pocket with embrodiery on chest

Nehru Jacket as Casualwear

Cotton, linen, and khadi are the go-to fabrics for casual occasions. By keeping the front buttons partly open, one can team it up with denim and tees and add a casual flair to the outfit.


Nehru Jacket as Ethnicwear

A Nehru jacket looks fabulous in classic traditional attire comprising a kurta and pyjama. 
Apart from linen, one can opt for silk, jacquard, or polyester in solid colours, prints or even with standard or customized embroidery. The play of buttons and the embroidery on the jacket edges, like collar & cuffs, can make the Nehru jacket look rich. Click here to see some cool Traditional Nehru Jacket designs.


How to Wear a Nehru Jacket

Traditionally, men have been closing all the front buttons irrespective of what they have paired their jackets with. However, it looks better if one keeps the top button or even the second one open. It looks modern and improves breathability. 
One shouldn’t wear a traditional fabric with formal wear and stick to the protocol explained above. However, the reverse may work depending on the outfit.

💡 Tip from TailorWear
A Nehru Jacket with a standard turndown collar shirt works better than with a round band collar. The former supports the Nehru Jacket’s neck and helps it remain standing.

How to match Kurta with a Nehru Jacket

On the silhouette side, the good news is that kurtas of any length and style work with a standard Nehru Jacket.
On the colour side, one has a lot of choices in terms of popular combinations that depend on factors like the event theme or coordination with family members, etc. One can go all monochromatic with an embroidered or printed Nehru Jacket and plain Kurta or vice versa. Contrasting ideas also work very well. A well-planned pocket square adds a lot of flair to the ensemble. 
One should avoid cheap golden lace work on the jacket or made in shiny polyester fabric.

Summing up

The technically correct name of a Nehru Jacket or a Modi Jacket is Bundi or Indian Vest. It is one of the most versatile outerwear items for men, and one should definitely invest in a few classic pieces. Here is our suggestion on what kind of Nehru Jacket you should have in your wardrobe: 
One jet solid black formal Nehru jacket in 100% wool or high-quality wool blend
A casual version in dark shades like deep blue, brown, or grey in linen or cotton
These two pieces will help you level up your style quotient in formal or casual settings.

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